This section includes the information necessary to maintain a healthy marijuana crop once you have already built your grow room and started your seedlings.
Now that you have your grow room completed, move your plants in, it’s time to talk about the lighting schedule. There are many ways you can find that claim to be the best, I found the following method to be the best for me…
While the plants are still seedlings, I keep all lights on 16 hours a day, off the other 8 obviously. Keep it on the same cycle don’t change the on/off times. I keep the plants about 20″ from the lighting, plants should never touch the lights. I lower the HPS bulbs that i had installed on the ceiling, raising them accordingly to maintain that 20″ standard. You do this until you are happy with the plants size, I wait until the plants are about 3 ft tall for a standard indoor setup. The reason is because if they get too big and you don’t have enough room for them, you won’t be able to get adequate lighting to all the plants, which means you won’t have a high yielding plants, just a bunch of crummy ones. Once they are the desired size, you switch the plants to 12 on and 12 off, this sends the plants into flowering mode. The plants will start to bud soon after. It is critical that you switch your fertilizer at this point, switch it to a mix that is for “flowering” plants, the mix should have more phosphorus in it, which will give you more robust flowers/buds. Again, don’t change the lighting cycle after you have begun.
Very important, unless you want lower quality weed pay attention to this part, once the plants start reaching maturity, their sex will become apparent. If you look on the plant where stems meet, you will see “flowers,” early female flowers look like little furry hairs, usually white, but they can be other colors. Early male flowers look a bit like small bunches of mini green bananas. The reason I tell you this is so that you can remove any evidence of a male or hermaphrodite plant ASAP. If you don’t remove them, they will corrupt your female plants. You want only females, they have the best bud.
This is an EC Table, this table gives you the acceptable limits of electrical conductivity in your growing medium. You will need an EC Meter to put this chart to use. The way EC works is it runs a current of electricity through the medium and it measures the time it takes for the current to bounce back, so to speak, the time it takes to return is affected by the amount of dissolved fertilizer salts.
Lemon (2) Baking Soda (9.5)
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12
The optimum growing range is right around 6 for most plants, slightly acidic. This allows for optimum nutrient uptake.
Always check the overall environmental conditions prior to passing judgment – soil around 6 pH – plenty of water, light, fresh air, loose soil, no water standing in pools, etc.
|Larger leaves turning yellow smaller leaves still green.||Nitrogen deficiency||add nitrate of soda or organic fertilizer.|
|Older leaves will curl at edges, turn dark, possibly with a purple cast.||Phosphorus deficiency||add commercial phosphate.|
|Mature leaves develop a yellowish cast to least venial areas.||Magnesium deficiency||add commercial fertilizer with a magnesium content.|
|Mature leaves turn yellow and then become spotted with edge areas turning dark grey.||Potassium deficiency||add muriate of potash.|
|Cracked stems, no healthy support tissue||Boron deficiency||add any plant food containing boron.|
|Small wrinkled leaves with yellowish vein systems.||Zinc deficiency||add commercial plant food containing zinc.|
|Young leaves become deformed, possibly yellowing.||Molybdenum deficiency||use any plant food with a bit of molybdenum in it.|